Karakoram

For the purposes of this article, I’m drawing from my own experiences on two expeditions around the Baltoro Glacier. It is, without exaggeration, the mecca of high-altitude mountaineering. Within a very small area, you’ll find not only four eight-thousanders (K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum I and II), but also several extremely high and alpinistically significant mountains, such as Gasherbrum IV, Masherbrum, Great Trango, Uli Biaho, and Chogolisa. The character of the land in the Karakoram is different from the Himalayas. It lies in the rain shadow of the Himalayas, and the climate is continental, without the summer and winter monsoons found in places like Nepal. There’s relatively little greenery; the landscape has more of a desert-rocky character with occasional oases of greenery and the characteristic poplar trees. 

The main trekking season is summer, from July to September. The architecture of the mountains is also different from that of the Himalayas. The peaks are steeper, often with a Gothic-like shape. These are true mountain temples or cathedrals. 🙂 Touristically, the Baltoro Glacier valley is the most interesting, but still relatively less frequented (compared to Himalayan treks like Annapurna or Everest Base Camp). The treks here are wilder in nature, without the comfort of native villages, shops, or tea houses. Camping in tents is the norm, and the treks require significantly more complex organization with the help of local porters and agencies. There’s also quite a bit of bureaucracy involved, as we are in a border region, with the Pakistani army present and frequent checkpoints. However, the soldiers are helpful and, not least, they take care of our safety.

Practical info

As is the case almost everywhere in Asia, the locals will expect a small tip for services (already paid for). Jeep drivers, porters, or cooks will be grateful for cash in proportion to their effort. The local people in the mountain villages live in very modest conditions. 

Help in the mountains in Pakistan is a different matter altogether. Unlike Nepal, there are no commercial helicopter companies that will take you to safety in a city or hospital on insurance. Not to mention any professional mountain rescue service. In the mountains, only the Pakistani army flies, and their assistance is conditional upon paying a rather high deposit before the trek; otherwise, the helicopters simply won’t take off. It’s possible to sort this out with your insurance later, but at the time when you need help, that won’t be of any use, so it’s important to think about this eventuality in advance. 

A very good tool to have on a trek is a satellite phone, ideally on the Thuraya network, with geostationary satellites that work even in mountain valleys. Food on the trek is relatively simple, but sufficient. Potatoes, pasta, vegetables, and rice are the staples. Occasionally, the cook will surprise you with some meat. Breakfast usually consists of eggs or pancakes, classic chapati flatbreads, or porridge. Each trekking day, everyone receives a packed lunch. 

Dinners are usually more filling, typically soup and a main dish, and there’s always a dessert like fruit or some other sweet treat. The dining tent always has large thermoses full of hot water for tea, coffee, or lemonade. Personally, I can’t imagine any trek or expedition without some Tang powder drink. I would definitely avoid drinking unboiled water. Like in most parts of the world, we must count on a different microbiome, and small or larger digestive issues are inevitable for most visitors. However, this is not a reason for panic. You don’t need to be an elite athlete to do the Baltoro trek—it’s easily manageable with average fitness. These aren’t races, but rather a time to enjoy the experience of being in these beautiful mountains.

Mišo Gabriž