blog Zakázané kráľovstvo Lo

Forbidden Kingdom of Lo

In the remote corners of the Nepali Himalayas lies the region of Upper Mustang. It is a stronghold of Tibetan culture, preserving centuries-old traditions amidst breathtaking landscapes. As we journey through this ancient land, we are transported to a world where time seems to have stood still for centuries, and the echoes of Tibet’s ancient culture resonate through the windy valleys and rugged mountains.

A bit of dry geography

Upper Mustang is located in the northwestern part of Nepal and geographically lies in the Tibetan Plateau. It is situated beyond the main Himalayan ridge, behind the northern slopes of Annapurna and Dhaulagiri, which adds to its unusual scenic beauty. The route to it passes through the Himalayan giants, through the deepest valley in the world carved by the wild Kali Gandaki River.

The region is highly mountainous, with elevations ranging from approximately 2,800 to 6,000 meters above sea level. It is crisscrossed by many deep canyons and valleys, rivers, and streams. These canyons are often surrounded by steep, rocky cliffs, creating breathtaking landscapes. Some parts of Upper Mustang have a desert-like character, with sandy plains and cliffs. These areas are known as "Sand Castles" and are an interesting geological phenomenon.

Upper Mustang has a dry and arid (desert) climate, with minimal rainfall and extreme temperature variations between day and night. This dry land is characterized by low humidity and sparse vegetation.

Ancient Land

Upper Mustang, often called the "Forbidden Kingdom," has a rich history that dates back to ancient times. Its origins and earliest history are shrouded in myths and legends. Once part of the Tibetan Empire, this region served as a crucial link in the ancient trade route for salt between Tibet and India. Over the centuries, it became a stronghold of Tibetan Buddhism, with monasteries and chortens serving as spiritual refuges for pilgrims and monks.

This territory, historically known as the Kingdom of Lo, was once a semi-autonomous kingdom on the border of Nepal. It maintained close ties with Tibet and played a significant role in the trade between Tibet and India. Until 1769, when it was annexed into the unified Kingdom of Nepal by the first king of the Shah Dynasty, it was de facto under the administration of the Tibetan Empire.

The kingdom's main "city" was Lo Manthang, which served as the residence of the king. His reign ended with the abolition of the kingdom and the fall of the Shah dynasty in Nepal, followed by the full integration of the Kingdom of Lo into the new Federal Democratic Republic of Nepal in 2008. The King of Lo, Jigme Dorje Palbar Bista, passed away in 2016 at the age of 86. His lineage traces back to Ame Pal, who founded the Kingdom of Lo in 1380.

Cultural heritage

Upper Mustang is abundant in many treasures that form the essence of Tibetan civilization. From intricately carved mani walls adorned with Buddhist mantras (mantras are not prayers) to vibrant Thangka paintings that decorate the walls of monasteries. Every corner of this land tells a story of devotion to the Buddha's teachings and the artistic genius of his followers. Traditional clothing, such as the chuba (long cloak) and pangden (striped apron), are still proudly worn during festivals and rituals, while the melodies of Tibetan music and dance resonate through the valleys during cultural celebrations.

The people of Upper Mustang, primarily of Tibetan origin, have preserved their unique customs and way of life for generations, untouched by the oppression of the Chinese aggressor. Without exaggeration, we can speak of a region that is more Tibetan than today's Tibet itself.

In the heart of Tibetan culture in Upper Mustang lies its deep spiritual heritage. The Champa Lhakhang Monastery in Lo Manthang and Thubchen Gompa stand as architectural wonders, preserving ancient texts, priceless artifacts, and sacred relics. Here, Buddhist rituals and ceremonies are performed with deep reverence, offering insight into spiritual practices that have sustained the community for centuries.

Ethnic Groups of Upper Mustang

The people of Mustang are a mix of different ethnic groups, including the Gurung, Thakali, and Lopa. The Lopa are the indigenous inhabitants of Mustang and have their own unique culture and language. They are known for their strong devotion to their traditions and customs, which have been passed down from generation to generation. The residents of Mustang, like all Nepalis, are friendly and welcoming. Visitors are often invited to participate in their daily activities, such as farming and cooking.

Other interesting facts

Sky Caves
One of the interesting features of Mustang are the thousands of rock dwellings, some of which are very inaccessible. These caves (or Sky Caves of Nepal) form a system of about 10,000 artificial caves carved into the cliff faces of the Mustang valley. Several groups of archaeologists and researchers have explored these caves and found partially mummified human bodies and skeletons that are at least 2,000 – 3,000 years old. The exploration of these caves also led to the discovery of valuable Buddhist paintings, statues, manuscripts, and numerous artifacts dating back to the 12th to 14th centuries. The caves are located on the steep walls of the valley near the Kali Gandaki River in Upper Mustang.

Other Cave Discoveries
In 2008, a second expedition discovered several 600-year-old human skeletons in the caves. They also uncovered a wealth of invaluable manuscripts containing writings on the Bon religion and Buddhism. Research teams continue to explore these caves, as it remains unclear who built the caves and why. According to one theory, they may date back to 8,000 – 10,000 BC, when Mustang was much greener.

Lo Manthang
is the only fortified city in Nepal and is also known as the cultural capital of the region. The palace and other buildings were constructed by Ame Pal, the first king of Lo, during the 15th century. His lineage is recognized as the royal family of Mustang. The entire city is extraordinarily well-preserved and remains in its original state.

Choprang Gompa, commonly known as the "New Gompa," is considered one of the best-preserved medieval fortresses and is a candidate for UNESCO World Heritage status.

Festivals
The most famous festival is Tiji, which usually takes place in April/May, with monks in costumes dancing for three days in the square. It is a festival of wishing well-being for the whole world.

Partisans
In the late 1950s and 1960s, Mustang became the center of Tibetan partisans involved in small operations against the annexation of Tibet by the People's Republic of China in 1959. The Tibetan partisan group Chushi Gangdruk operated from Upper Mustang with the intent of ambushing positions in Tibet, which led to a border incident resulting in the death of a Nepalese officer who was mistakenly thought to be a Tibetan rebel. These partisans were assisted by the CIA and the legendary Tibetan warriors, the Khampas. In the 1970s, after U.S. President Richard Nixon visited China, the CIA withdrew its support and the Nepalese government dissolved the Tibetan fighters.

The present

Until 1992, Upper Mustang was a completely restricted area for foreigners. Even today, tourism is strictly regulated, with a limit on the number of visitors allowed each year. Tourism is also limited by the permit fee – 500 USD for 10 days. A road has been built to Mustang, leading from the center of Lower Mustang, Jomsom, where there is also a small airport. This road is becoming popular primarily among off-road motorcycle enthusiasts. Continuing along this sometimes poor road, which runs through the Kali Gandhaki valley, one can reach the second-largest city in Nepal, Pokhara.

The Way of Heart

Upper Mustang is truly an extraordinary corner of the world. The combination of stunning landscapes and incredibly rich culture makes it a true gem, one that is definitely worth exploring.

Exploring the mystery of Tibet in Upper Mustang is not only a journey of the heart, but also a pilgrimage of the soul. It is a romantic trek where mysterious valleys meet the endless sky, and where the enigmatic stories of the past are revealed to us.

"And when night falls upon the mountain peaks and the stars dance in the sky, the romance of the mystery transcends all boundaries, bringing peace to the hearts of those who dared to embark on this unforgettable journey."

Michal Gabriž.